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When assembling a ranking of London’s top eateries, one might foresee renowned high-end names. However, situated prominently among these gastronomic titans is a simple salonu located in a distant area of north London.

An Shocking Accolade

This small Turkish spot, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the 4th finest restaurant in the city by a respected culinary publication. The recognition has made the family completely astonished.

“I’m totally surprised,” states a family member, referring to his parents’ dedication that resulted in their small restaurant earning such a high position on a notable 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

This small shop, which was a basic cafe before its conversion into a sought-after destination, has kept much of its original feel. It seats just more than 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking show, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky place,” says the owner.

The Star Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all about the cuisine, and this eatery more than delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a moist, juicy quality.

The meat is then thrown into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. Once the savoury mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to absorb all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the tasty meat is wrapped securely inside.

The wrap is often eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a strong slap of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The leading food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is doused in less syrup than usual, imparting it a more intense, toastier and more balanced taste.

Outranking the Giants

Notably, this modest spot has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the peak of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant full for under £25, similar meals at luxury establishments can start at many times that amount.

A Philosophy of Warmth

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I do not subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is supported by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he was in a position of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the traps of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Path of Dedication

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t apprentice at elite restaurants. “I am really happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to become successful, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum used to be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a social life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

An Achievement for the People

The restaurant’s accolade is set to have meaning beyond its own premises. “I think numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the wider meaning of this culinary honour.